A Beginners Guide to Chinese Cookery

IntroductionStir-Frying
When I first ate Chinese food in the UK in theThe most well known Chinese cooking technique
1970s, it was really quite unappealing. Everythingis stir-frying. This is where your wok comes into
came in a gloopy sauce and seemed to taste theits own as it's shape and size (at least 14 inches
same, due to the overuse of monosodiumdiameter with deep sides) is ideal for quick
glutamate, supposedly a flavour enhancer but incooking. The secret to successful stir-frying is to
reality, nothing of the kind. Then in the 1980s ahave all your ingredients ready in advance.
new breed of Chinese restaurant arrived (at leastMeat should be cut according to the recipe but
it took that long to reach the provinces) whichnormally in thin strips. Vegetables likewise but in
provided lighter, tastier Chinese cookingany event should be of similar shapes and sizes to
demonstrating regional differences. There wasensure even cooking. Long thin vegetables such
one drawback, however, which was that this newas spring onions, carrots or asparagus are often
type of restaurant was much more expensivecut on the diagonal so that more surface area is
than the original cheap 'n tasteless ones.exposed for quicker cooking. Measure out sauce
Consequently, I thought how nice it would be toingredients - check the recipe - if they are all
cook Chinese food at home but I had no ideaadded to the dish at the same time, you can put
where to start until BBC TV came to my rescuethem all in one small bowl. If cornflour is included,
in the shape of Ken Hom, the USA-born chef ofdon't forget to give it a good stir before adding to
Cantonese parents.the other food.
Ken presented Chinese cuisine in such anOnce you have everything prepared, heat your
easily-understandable way, demonstratingwok until it is very hot then add oil and using your
techniques and suggesting alternative ingredientschosen stirring implement ensure that the oil is
should the originals not be available in your localevenly distributed over the surface of the wok.
supermarket. The book which accompanied theBefore you add your ingredients. the wok should
series, Ken Hom's Chinese Cookery became mybe so hot that it is almost smoking - this will
bible and I still have my copy, pages stained withprevent the food from being greasy. The
oil drips and smears of sauce.exception to this is if you are flavouring your oil
To help you on your way to cooking Chinesewith garlic, chilli, spring onions, ginger or salt -
food at home, I'm going to briefly describe thethese will burn if the oil is too hot.
basic equipment, ingredients and techniques whichNow add your other ingredients in the order
you need to know so that you can producestated in the recipe and toss them over the
some simple and tasty dishes. I hope you enjoysurface of the wok ensuring that nothing rests in
the article and that it inspires you to get cooking!one place for too long and moving the food from
Equipmentthe centre of the wok to the sides. I suggest
Although there are many implements and piecesthat you wear an apron or other protective
of equipment you can buy, to start on the roadclothing for this operation as the food often spits
to cooking your own Chinese food, you really onlydue to the high temperature it is cooked at.
need a good knife or two and a wok. WoksDeep Frying
come in all shapes and sizes, they can beYou can use your wok for deep frying but be
non-stick, flat-bottomed, they can even bevery careful that it is safely balanced on its stand.
electric these days but I still prefer my old carbonUnder no circumstances leave it unattended. Deep
steel wok with it's rounded bottom and onefrying in a wok uses less oil than a deep fryer or
wooden handle. This is a Pau wok. These aresaucepan but you may find these safer and
readily available in Chinese supermarkets and areeasier to use.
much less expensive than other varieties. There isWhen deep frying, make sure that the oil is hot
one important task though, before you will beenough before adding ingredients or the food will
ready to cook with such a wok and that is toend up very greasy. Test it by dropping in a small
season it. You will need to scrub it with a creampiece of prepared food or a cube of bread. If the
cleaner to remove any residues of machine oiloil bubbles up around what you dropped in then
and dry it carefully. Put the wok on the hob overit's hot enough.
a low heat. Rub the inside of the wok with twoMake sure that food to be deep fried is dried
tablespoons of cooking oil using kitchen towel. Letthoroughly on kitchen paper or drained of its
the wok heat slowly for 10 to 15 minutes thenmarinade before cooking otherwise it will spit.
wipe the inside with more kitchen towel. TheShallow Frying
paper will come away black. Carry on coating,This is the same as the Western technique. Fry
heating and cleaning off until the kitchen towelfood on one side, then the other and drain off
comes away clean. Your wok is now ready toany excess oil before adding sauce ingredients. A
use. After use, wash only in water withoutnormal frying pan is fine for this.
detergent and dry thoroughly over a low heat.Steaming
You may also apply a little oil if you wish. ThisSteaming is widely used in Chinese cookery. You
should prevent the wok from rusting but if itcan use a bamboo steamer in a wok, a
does develop rust, just scrub and season again.heat-proof plate placed on a rack in a wok or
As well as the wok, you will need a wok stand,other large pan or you can use a normal European
particularly if you have an electric hob. This keepssteamer.
the wok stable if you are using it for braising orIf using a bamboo steamer or plate in a wok,
deep frying.bring about 2 inches of water to a simmer. Put
You will also need something to stir with - anyyour rack into the wok (if the bamboo steamer is
spatula, slice or slotted spoon will do - metal for abig enough and will sit on the sides of the wok
metal wok and plastic or wooden for a non-stickwithout being in the water, you don't need a rack)
wok.and balance your plate or steamer of food on it.
IngredientsPut the lid on your steamer or wok and check
Before you rush out and buy up the wholeoccasionally to see if the water needs topping up
Chinese section at the supermarket, bear in mind(use water which is already hot).
that some ingredients don't keep well if leftWhichever method you use, make sure that the
unused. Just select something simple from yourfood is above the water level and isn't getting
chosen cookery book and buy the things that youwet.
need for that then you can expand your selectionBraising
as you progress through different dishes.As with Western cooking, braising is used for
Some common store-cupboard ingredients thattougher cuts of meat and involves gentle cooking
you will almost certainly need are dark and lightof meat and/or vegetables in flavoured stock.
soy sauce, some sort of cooking oil and sesameRed-braising is the technique where food is
oil, cornflour and rice wine or sherry. For morebraised in a dark liquid such as soy sauce which
information, see my article Chinese Cooking -gives the food a red/brown colour. This type of
Ingredients and Equipment.braising sauce can be frozen and re-used.
Techniques