Why Spices are Important

These days certain spices have become soginger (and its relatives, galangal, zedoary etc) are
ubiquitous at our tables that we hardly think ofspices, as is the Medieval spice, Galingale (the root
them as spices at all... Black pepper is the obviousof a sedge, a grass-like plant).
example here, but I'd include chillies in the form ofHumans are odd amongst animals in that we like
sauces and pastes as well. Just think of the saltpungency in our foods and many, many spices
and pepper cellars on just about each and everywe do or have employed tend to have this note
table and the chilli-based condiments that arein their flavour. This, in turn, has led us as a
everywhere. Also, look at any recipe on the webspecies to use a whole range of spices in our
and if they're for a savoury dish I guarantee youcookery and many of these spices, in some way,
that well over 90% will have 'season with salt andecho the distinctive nature of black pepper.
pepper' somewhere in the cooking instructions.This is why the chilli, when introduced to Europe
Today black pepper is both cheap and plentifulfrom the Americas was called the 'chilli pepper' (to
and it's hard for us to even consider a time whenassociate it with black pepper). Indeed, the vast
pepper was an incredibly rare and expensivemajority of spices impart 'heat' on a dish and only
commodity. However, until very recently (andvery few are purely used for their flavouring
even during the Second World War in Europe)properties. Chilli is widely used because it imparts
black pepper was both expensive and rare. It waspure 'heat' to a dish but it does not have the
only produced in India and found its way topungency of black pepper and this is why chilli,
Europe by strange and mysterious means.though very widely used today, still hasn't
The first recorded use of black pepper in Europedisplaced black pepper as the King of Spices.
and North Africa was in the tomb of the pharaohMost of our common and not so common spices
Rameses II who had two peppercorns stuck inhave a heat and pungency that mimics black
this nostrils when he was mummified (and thatpepper in some way or other. But all of them also
was 4000 years ago). But the first Westernimpart a bitterness to the foods they flavour.
peoples to use black pepper extensively were theGood examples are cubeb pepper (common in
Greeks and they introduced the love of this spicethe Middle Ages) and Sénégal
to the Romans. As a result the Romans were thePepper (which was used as a black pepper
first Europeans to travel to India in search of thissubstitute during the Second World War). They
magical substance (of course, Indian traders hadimpart both heat and pungency to dishes, but if
been going the other way for centuries!).used to excess they also impart an unpleasant
In many ways black pepper is the perfect spice inbitterness and this is why they never truly rivalled
that it has the 'heat' and 'pungency' that lift theblack pepper as food flavourings.
flavours of a dish but brings with it no hint ofIn our craving for adding that extra 'pep' to our
bitterness. It therefore gives any and all foods anfoods humans have scoured all corners of the
'oomph' in terms of flavour without making themworld and we have tasted and added some very
unpalatable (this is why Romans even put pepperstrange things to our dishes (Sichuan pepper,
in their desserts!).beloved of Chinese cookery is a relative of the
But what actually is a spice? In terms of aorange!). But nothing has rivalled the pre-eminence
modern definition, a spice is typically obtainedof black pepper in cookery. The only spice to
from the dried fruiting body of a plant. Thus it cancome close is chilli.
be the whole fruit (as in cubeb pepper or allspiceThis does mean that our love of black pepper has
berries or cumin) or it is the kernel or seed of thedisplaced many local spices that we used to use in
fruit (as in nutmeg and fenugreek seeds or nigellathe past and it also means that we are ignoring
seeds). In contrast, herbs are the vegetativemany taste sensations that could usefully be put
parts of a plant (the stems and leaves) andback in our cookery. Maybe it's time to
include lemongrass (stems), thyme (leaves),re-discover some of these lost spices from all
oregano (leaves). Spices are also obtained fromover the globe an to re-gain some of our lost
the roots, rhizomes or tubers of plants. Thusculinary heritage.